Serra’s trajectory helps explain the balance between tradition and boldness. His first contact with restaurants came at a young age, at his aunt’s restaurant, in Graça. This was followed by stints at Altis, Sala de Corte and, later, the challenge of sous-chef at Memmo Príncipe Real.
From there came the opportunity to lead Áurea, an invitation that, at first, made him hesitant. “I still thought three times before accepting it, because it is a very big responsibility”says Serra, one of the promising names of a new generation in the kitchen and who was 26 years old when he accepted the invitation.
In the Baixa space, he found the freedom to develop a menu that emphasizes the Portuguese flavor, even when incorporating elements from other geographies. The menu reflects this vision of the chef, who has in his hands the necessary technique for this mix of techniques and flavors.
Among the highlights are a memorable Broken Eggs, Tiger Prawns, Oscietra and Guanciale Caviar (€26) which still comes with the Áurea Potatoes (fried mil-feuille) which is one of the chef’s greatest prides. “It’s a lot of work, but it’s worth it,” he reveals. Other options in the entries are the Mommos Tonkotsu e Enchidos (€18) and the Azores Lily and Dashi (€18)in addition to a deconstructed Stone Soup (€10).
In the main ones, the mix between Portuguese products and techniques from other geographies reaches a high point with the Quail, Japanese Curry, Thai Green Mango Salad (€34). The dish also has a second layer of accompaniment, a bao (Chinese bread) that arrives with lollipops of quail leg rolled non-guanciale. The idea, says the chef, is to use cured pork jowl (guanciale) to balance the yakitori cordoniz (smoked).
Despite this mix in the main dishes, the appreciation of national cuisine is also present in the house, especially through the executive menu (Couvert, Main, Dessert, Drink, Coffee) served on weekdays and highly sought after by Portuguese customers – costs €25.
There, tradition is served without deviation: cod à brás on Monday, black pork ranch on Tuesday, fish and seafood masada on Wednesday, francesinha on Thursday and cuttlefish feijoada on Friday. Desserts vary weekly, always within the classic sweets, from Ovar sponge cake to Pudim abade de Priscos. “We don’t invent things here. We really do the typical Portuguese style: basic and well done”. We endorse the chef’s observation.